The AW14 collection from 1205
by Laurie Prescot
Central St Martins alumna and BFC NEWGEN winner, designer of fashion label 1205 Paula Gerbase has an impressive resumé. Trained in the womenswear atelier of Hardy Amies and enjoying a long stint at Savile Row's Kilgour, the resulting aesthetic for unisex label 1205 is utilitarian and subtly masculine.
1205 collections are centred around "considered, thoughtful pieces with a focus on fabric and cut". Contrasting textures sit alongside austere colour palettes, giving the otherwise androgynous feel a hint of sensuality. The pared-back greys and blacks that Gerbase is known for are occasionally styled with blue and oxblood for a more feminine touch. Pleated trousers, billowing coats loosely tied at the waist and crisp white cotton are 1205 staples and would make the perfect addition to the wardrobes of the sharpest dresser of either sex. Frequently described as 'redefining the notions of gender', 1205 is not overtly defined by being 'unisex', instead it is gender-neutral, allowing the modern, experimental forms to speak for themselves.
Tailoring is minimal and restrained - meaning 1205's pieces give a graceful aesthetic that is no-nonsense but relaxed. When talking about the lack of fussy detailing, Gerbase explained "Everything else around us is so busy and if you let go of all that stuff, people notice. Clothes are about framing a personality and although you're making a choice about what you are wearing, ultimately, it really isn't ever about the clothes."
Sophisticated simplicity and craftsmanship sum up the ethos of 2015 - an understated label that is one to be reckoned with.